Canary Islands: Tenerife, Gran Canaria and Fuerteventura

04 January 2022 – 16 January 2022

Valentin Moser

In January 2022, I spent 12 days in the Canary Islands, 6 of those in Tenerife, one in Gran Canaria and 5 in Fuerteventura. I focused on mammals (9 species) and finding the endemic bird species. As it was a trip with my girlfriend, we spend some time with other outdoor activities like hiking and snorkeling.

Visited Sites

General Travelling Information

Tenerife endemic birds are mostly easy, only the Laurel pigeon left us waiting a bit. We did not try the Gran Canaria Chaffinch. Based on other reports, the bustards can be tough on Fuerteventura, while the Chat was easy at Los Molinos. I did not try to build a complete species list or find all endemic subspecies, so check other trip reports/ebird/iNaturalist for other birding spots. For rare birds, there are some websites and social media: Facebook (Birds of the Canary Islands, Macaronesian Birds App), Twitter (Rare Birds in Spain) and reservoirbirds.com/Sightings.asp. While for birds ebird and the sites mentioned above were sufficient, for mammals and other groups I used https://www.biodiversidadcanarias.es/biota/ to get an understanding of the distribution. Many things were booked out in advance, take care to book whale watching, Teide summit permit (but see below for alternative) and other touristy activities early on.
In January it can be rainy, and indeed we had some rain on Tenerife. On Fuerteventura, we also had a big “calima”, basically a sand wind from the Sahara, that made observations tough but can bring African vagrants.
We rented a car in Tenerife and Fuerteventura, both times with Cicar, both times very easy without hassle, although they have a minimum rental time of a few days. In Tenerife, we slept in hotels mostly booked on the same day. This was maybe good to stay spontaneous, but in hindsight, it would be sufficient to change place only 1-2 times, as driving around the island is efficient, and many places can be reached quickly. Our program was very intense and it is worth spending a bit more time on the island. In Fuerteventura, we stayed in El Cotillo for most nights. A bit touristy but was a good base for snorkeling and the bustard.

Mirador Fuente del Rey

One of the best Laurel pigeon spots, besides Mirrador el Lance (28.38498, -16.603469) and Mirrador La Grimona (28.392792, -16.608865). Pigeons might be distant in the trees under the houses on the other side of the valley.

Target species

  • Bolle's Pigeon Columba bollii

  • Laurel Pigeon Columba junoniae

Zona Recreativa Las Lajas

The finches (and many other birds) come to drink at a water place (approximately 28.189258, -16.66499).

Target species

  • Tenerife Blue Chaffinch Fringilla teydea

Área Recreativa Ramón el Caminero

Blue Chaffinch can be common in the picnic area

Target species

  • Tenerife Blue Chaffinch Fringilla teydea

Mirador de Chipeque

With a water place (28.374179, -16.463793) that also attracts Tenerife Blue Chaffinch.

Target species

  • Tenerife Blue Chaffinch Fringilla teydea

Costa Calma

At Costa Calma, there is an artificial pine and palm forest. A magnet not only for birds but for all sorts of wildlife, probably the most species-rich terrestrial place in Fuerteventura. Best for arthropods and birds was the wilder part in the SW (28.156552, -14.233968), as well as an open area near a car parking, with plenty of Hoopoe and other wildlife enjoying some leaky pipes (28.153633, -14.232592). Red-vented Bulbul and Laughing Dove accompany the park-feeling, and the place was birdy even in mid-afternoon. I would recommend spending a morning birding there – not really for its beauty, but the rarity potential of this place.

Embalse de los Molinos

Besides Los Molinos water reservoir (28.512713, -14.031442), the Barranco starting down at the Puertito de los Molinos is also a good birding area

Target species

  • Fuerteventura Stonechat Saxicola dacotiae

Llanos de Tindaya

Drive the tracks for the Bustard. Going early seems to increase the chances of a sighting. We were very lucky and before sunrise we had an individual along the road (28.609027, -14.005654).

Target species

  • Houbara Bustard Chlamydotis undulata

Diary

05 January 2022: Tenerife

The three “easy” partial endemics came in quick, the first Bertholet’s pipit close to a beach near the airport, Canary Islands Chiffchaff and Atlantic Finch on the first hike north of Santiago del Teide on a tour roughly around Cruz de Gala. This hike also delivered the first forest species like Bolle’s Pigeons, Goldcrests, Chaffinch and a variety of Tenerife habitat. In the forest we flushed some Bolle’s Pigeons, as well as some mystery pigeons…
After the hike, we tried Laurel Pigeon at three known places: Mirrador Fuente del Ray (28.376419, -16.626356), Mirrador el Lance (28.38498, -16.603469) and Mirrador La Grimona (28.392792, -16.608865), not much activity in the late afternoon, a few Bolle’s Pigeon. In the night in the hills above our accommodation in Icod de los Vinos we easily found Madaira pipistrelle at several places with the bat detector (e.g. 28.343749, -16.701942).

06 January 2022

The next morning, we were successful at Mirrador Fuente del Ray for the Laurel Pigeon.
We then did a cloud forest hike in the northeast of the island in the Anaga mountains starting from Casa Forestal (28.541878, -16.229003). Beautiful forest! Further along the Peninsula in Benijo I spotted a Peregrine Falcon overhead.

07 January 2022

As weatherwise our whale watching in Los Gigantes was moved a day earlier, we returned to the west the next morning, for a tour with Whale Wise Eco Tours. We were very lucky, with the resident Short-finned Pilot Whales which they usually see, as well as Bottlenose Dolphins and a mother/calf duo Eden’s Whales, all in 2.5 hours. I can recommend this company, although expensive, they try to maximize species and respect the animals. Already on the way back, I spotted some whales in the distance and only when it was clear that it was Pilot Whales again, we continued towards Los Gigantos. The 10:30 tour has the biggest chance to see the Pilot Whales and other stuff, as many boats are out. Exciting is also the possibility of beaked whales in the area – they occasionally see them when the water is very calm. We then went snorkeling in Alcala – an Eastern Atlantic Trumpetfish saved the snorkeling.

09 January 2022

The final two days we spend in the mountains. The first Finch we went to see in the Area Recreativa Las Lajas, where at a water place (approximately 28.189258, -16.66499) they come to drink. As a bonus, we had some Plain Swifts on the way up, but I think this was a chance encounter. Other places where we saw Teneriffe Blue Chaffinch include Mirador de Chipeque, also with water place (28.374179, -16.463793) and Área Recreativa Ramón El Caminero (28.329650, -16.533112) and a surprise Brambling (self-found, but previously reported, 5th record Canary Islands). We then had a short night and started at 3:00 climbing Pico del Teide. If one is one the summit before 9:00, no permit is needed. We had an intense day, also climbing down. On the way up, we were quicker as expected and found some wind shelter at the currently closed Refugio, which resulted in the possibly highest House Mouse of Spain!

10 January 2022: Gran Canaria

First activity was snorkeling at the Playa de Las Canteras towards the rocks further out at low tide. Some currents make this place unsuitable for beginners, but even for us it was quite a lot of effort for few fish. Highlights were some nice Gold Sponges Aplysina aerophoba. We were compensated by a shorebird-hunting Peregrine falcon and a community garden with lots of Monarch butterflies (28.137282, -15.436284). We then went for a hike in Barranco de Guiniguada. It is rather urban and dominated by agriculture like banana plantations, but I found all endemic reptile species and the Gran Canaria subspecies of African Blue Tit, as well as Plain Swift.

11 January 2022: Fuerteventura.

The next morning, we took the ferry to Fuerteventura. The sea was more favorable, but seemingly my luck ran out, as I saw absolutely nothing except Mediterranean Gulls. To top things off, when I changed side of the ship when entering the port of Morro Jable, my girlfriend came running, as she detected Bottlenose Dolphins on “my side”, where I had been starring into nothing for 2 hours!

After arriving mid-day, we picked up the car and drove to Costa Calma, where an artificial pine and palm forest is located. A magnet not only for birds, but for all sorts of wildlife, probably the most species-rich terrestrial place in Fuerteventura. Best for arthropods was the wilder part in the SW (28.156552, -14.233968), as well as an open area near our car parking, with plenty of Hoopoe and other wildlife enjoying some leaky pipes (28.153633, -14.232592). Red-vented Bulbul and Laughing Dove accompany the park-feeling, and the place was birdy even in mid-afternoon. I would recommend spending a morning birding there – not really for its beauty, but the rarity potential of this place. We walked on in direction NW, crossing El Jable to reach the coast on the other side of the island. On the way, there was a Barbary Ground Squirrel running across the track. Also, the first Feral Goats were seen. On the way back, I spotlighted in the park and had an Algerian Hedgehog (introduced in Canary Island, just like the Ground Squirrel). Driving in the night towards Los Molinos, we spotted a European rabbit.

12 January 2022

The next morning, we started in Los Molinos water reservoir (28.512713, -14.031442), which was rather dry and therefore not many water birds present. I was lucky though with two sightings of Canary Islands Stonechat, as well quite a few Black-bellied Sandgrouse flying overhead (ca 9:00). Down at the Puertito de los Molinos we started hiking up the Barranco with quite a few species seen, including breeding Canary Islands Stonechat as well Muscovy Ducks and Feral Goat.

13 January 2022

In the evening, we arrived at El Cotillo, our base for the reminder of the time. The first goal the next morning was the Houbara Bustard and indeed we were very lucky and before sunrise we had an individual along the road (28.609027, -14.005654). Fantastic views from the car with a totally relaxed bird! Going early seems the key, we did not see the bird again when passing the same place again on our way back 30 minutes later. The plan would have been to further go out other mornings, possibly also from El Cotillo, but a “calima”, basically a sand wind, moved in, and sand, dust and wind made birding difficult. Luckily aquatic activities kept me busy. Snorkling in El Cotillo was fantastic, although quite fluctuant in number of individuals, species number was always good. We visited Lobos Island, but were a bit disappointed: Bad snorkeling (at least in the Puertito area, with less fish than anywhere else I went on this trip, as well as currents) and -of course- many people. Maybe you can book one of the many boat trips in area, sometimes they have very cool marine life like sharks and dolphins, and hopefully the snorkeling is better… Hiking around the islands was also not too interesting. I went diving from Corralejo with Punta Amanay with the goal of seeing a new shark order for me: Angelsharks. We did, so I was happy!

Species List

Order: systematic | alphabetic | highlights first
Published: 07 March 2022
Last updated: 07 March 2022
Canary Islands: Tenerife, Gran Canaria and Fuerteventura - Orniverse