Southern Colombia

18 August 2018 – 16 September 2018

Fabian Schneider and Nina Perret-Gentil

After two other trips (January/February 2016 & April/May 2017) in this fabulous country,  we travel during one month, mostly in the "not too touristy" southern part of the country (Huila, Putumayo and Nariño) through some incredible birding sites like Reserva La Isla Escondida, Trampolín de las Aves, RN La Planada and RN Río Ñambi.

Visited Sites

General Travelling Information

Transport

We rent a small car in Bogotá with Localiza. They have good prices and services.

We travel independently and without guide (except where required).

Security

All the visited sites were really safe and we encountered no problem. Most of the inhabitants are friendly and helpful.

We registred ourseft on Itineris, the online registration for Swiss citizens travelling abroad from the Federal Department of Foreign Affairs.

Climate

In August and September, the weather was pleasant. We had some rain but very few iin comparison with April/May 2017 (El Niño). The driest period is between December and February.

All the months could be good, but try to avoid the rainy season during an El Niño event as landslide are regular and could destroy the road or worse your accommodation.

Recommended Literature

Bird trip report of my two previous visits in Colombia (January/February 2016 & April/May 2017)

Field Guide to the Birds of Colombia (Miles McMullan)

Guía Ilustrada de la Avifauna Colombiana (Fernando Ayerbe Quiñones)

Birdwatching in Colombia (Jurgen Beckers & Pablo Florez)

Acknowledgements

A big thank you to Brayan Coral Jaramillo for the advices and for joining us in the Páramo de Bordoncillo, to Ottavio Janni for the advices about the spots to visit in Southern Colombia, to Jurgen Beckers for the organisation of our stay in his amazing Reserva La Isla Escondida, to the family Cruz in Palestina for the friendly welcome in their family hostel and for the advices, to Cristian Florez Pai for arranging our visit in the Reserva Río Ñambi and to all friendly and helpful people we met.

Liberia

We slept our first night in Monte La Mama. During the night we could heard Mottled Owl, Tropical Screech-owl and Common Pauraque. We woke up in the sound of Little Tinamou and Colombian Chachalaca. We spend the morning in the cloud forest around (a few trails were possible to take directly from our accomodation). Some nice species observed included Crimson-rumped Toucanet, Black-faced Tanager and Orange-crowned Oriole.

We also did a stop near Liberia where several flowering trees attracted hummingbirds like Violet-bellied Hummingbird, Brown Violetear and Black-throated Mango. More than 60 species were encountered around Liberia.

Target species

  • Colombian Chachalaca Ortalis columbiana

How to get there

We slept in Monte La Mama. A nice and friendly place located 3 hours from the capital where you can sleep under some kind of tent for a very good price.

Desierto de la Tatacoa

In addition to scenic landscapes, there are some dry bushes species present in the bushy areas, like Dwarf Cuckoo, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Northern White-fringed Antwren, Grey Pileated Finch and Dull-colored Grassquit.

Target species

  • Pileated Finch Coryphospingus pileatus

Facilities & accommodation

We spend the night in the Dunas Tatacoa, located near Villavieja. A cheap and clean option with the ability to explore the bushy areas around.

El Encanto Reserva Ecoturistica

In Palestina, we stay in the Reserva El Encanto (01°43'15.38"N, 76°07'8.98"W). It was our second stay there. The house is beautiful and the family very friendly. Melida is really helful and cooks some nice meals. Michael gives some useful advices about birds in the reserve and around.

This quiet area also worth it to watch the birds. During our two stays (in 2017 and 2018) we encountered more than 90 species just around the just in the homestead including 5 endemics and a few other near-endemics. We had also some nice observations of Gorgeted Woodstar, Brown Violetear, Bar-crested Antshrike and Golden-eared Tanagers.

We observed many worthwhile migratory birds like American cliff swallow (August 2018), Olive-sided and Alder Flycatcher (May 2017).

Target species

  • Colombian Chachalaca Ortalis columbiana

  • Tolima Dove Leptotila conoveri

  • Indigo-capped Hummingbird Saucerottia cyanifrons

  • Gorgeted Woodstar Chaetocercus heliodor

  • Apical Flycatcher Myiarchus apicalis

  • Dusky-headed Brushfinch Atlapetes fuscoolivaceus

  • Golden-eared Tanager Tangara chrysotis

Facilities & accommodation

The Reserva El Encanto is a beautiful charming place to stay.

Mocoa area

The region of Mocoa is a beautiful with different hiking possibilities, also pefect for those who also travel with non-birder friends. During our stay we observed 80 birds species around Mocoa. Mainly we visited three differents areas:

  1. Fín del Mundo: We have done one walk during a morning to the waterfalls. The forest and the waterfalls are beautiful but it was rather quiet and we encountered relatively few birds. We observed some mixed flocks with for example Gilded Barbet, Black-faced Dacnis and Turquoise Tanager. In the undergrowth, we saw some Grey-chinned and White-bearded Hermit. Between the Hostal Fín del Mundo and the hostal Huaca Huaca, we observed one Grey-crowned Flatbill. We had also 3 Humboldt's Araçaris near the main river. We also went twice, only on the first part of the trail for a short walk. 
  2. ITP Botanical Garden: We went for an afternoon walk in the Botanical garden. Even if it was rather quiet we observed some interesting species such as Chestnut Woodpecker, White-bearded Hermit, Plum-throated Cotinga and Opal-crowned Tanager.
  3. San Antonio: We watch the birds along the road that reach the the construction site of the new Mocoa - Sibundoy road. We encountered some noteworthy species like Blue-fronted Lancebill, Lined Antshrike, Ecuadorian Tyrannulet and Bronze-green Euphonia.

Facilities & accommodation

We stay in the Posada turistica Dantayaco just south of Mocoa. The location is nice and the price interesting even if the room and the services are lower than all our other accommodations during this trip.

Local guides

We didn't take any guide but if you want one, ask Brayan Coral Jaramillo. He is a friendly guide and knows all the birds of the region! 

Other wildlife observed

Pygmy Marmoset (observed once by Nina near the Posada Dantayaco), Squirrel Monkey, Saddleback Tamarin, Neotropical River Otter (Observed in the river before the first waterfall on the way to Fín del Mundo), Common opossum (one crossing the road before Mocoa from Pitalito)

Villagarzón area

We spend a half day on 24 and we just had a brief stop on 29 to explore the south of Villagarzón (0°55'57.9"N 76°35'54.4"W). The area is mainly composed by pastures with some second growth forests.

We encountered several species from the undergrowth like Grey-breasted Crake, Dark-billed Cuckoo, Barred Antshrike and Thrush-like Wren. We observed some tanagers and co like Masked Crimson Tanager, Turquoise Tanager and Yellow-bellied Dacnis. We also observed Chestnut-crowned Becard and Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher.

As the habitat is rather open, it is relatively easy to observe some flying birds. We saw, for example, Red-bellied Macaw, Blue-winged Parrotlet, Bare-necked Fruitcrow and White-winged Swallow.

In the grassland interspersed with bushes, we observed Swainson's Flycatcher and Chestnut-bellied Seedeater.

How to get there

Coming from Villagrazón, drive 10 kilometers to the south. Then take a trake to the right. The best area start near the small river about 1km from the start of the track. After that, you can walk to the bigger river.

Facilities & accommodation

We reach this place from Mocoa.

RN La Isla Escondida

One of our highlights in the visited places ( an highly recommended site)!

We stay 3 days and 2 nights in the wonderful Isla La Escondida. During our stay we encountered about 100 species despite one day and a half of strong rain with very few birds observed.

The reserve has a very rich undergrowth full of cryptic species that you heard more than see like White-lored Antpitta, Fulvous Antshrike, Black Antbird, Scale-backed Antbird, Spot-backed Antbird, Foothill Antwren, Moustached Antwren, Rufous-winged Antwren and Rusty-belted Tapaculo. You can found also Black-and-white and Golden-winged Tody-Flycatcher in the bushes along the trails.

We observed many huge mixed flocks including species such as Black-capped Becard, Wing-barred Piprites, Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo, Fulvous Shrike-Tanager, Flame-crested Tanager, Fulvous-crested Tanager, Green-and-gold Tanager, Yellow-bellied Tanager, Spotted Tanager, Yellow-loredTanager and Tawny-crowned Greenlet. They can be observed regularly from one of the two canopy towers, like the Spangled Cotinga.

Some mixed flocks included bigger species like Amazonian Umbrellabird and Andean Cock-of-the-cock.

Other interesting sightings included Fiery-throated Fruiteater, Grey-tailed Piha and Olivaceous Flatbill.

The soundscape was just completely unbelievable with the songs of Nocturnal Curassow, Band-bellied Owl and Common Potoo to fall asleep and the Great Tinamou and Wattled Guan to wake up.

Target species

  • Nocturnal Curassow Nothocrax urumutum

  • Band-bellied Owl Pulsatrix melanota

  • White-lored Antpitta Myrmothera fulviventris

  • Rusty-belted Tapaculo Liosceles thoracicus

  • Fiery-throated Fruiteater Pipreola chlorolepidota

  • Gray-tailed Piha Snowornis subalaris

  • Ecuadorian Tyrannulet Phylloscartes gualaquizae

  • Carmiol's Tanager Chlorothraupis carmioli

How to get there

We let our rental car in the car park of the Hotel Tayrona in Orito. Then we took a bus to El Libano. From the terminus, we walked up to the Reserva Isla La Escondida. It takes about four hours of walking to reach the lodge. The path is often slippery but it's worth the trip.

Facilities & accommodation

First, as we arrive during the afternoon we stay for one night in Orito. We slept in the Hotel Tayrona. The price are good, the rooms are clean and the staffs friendly and helpful. Then in the morning we reach the Reserva Isla La Escondida. An amazing place with all the comfort you need. It is also possible the slept in a small house on the canopy tower: one of the best experience ever!!!

Local guides

If you want the perfect guide, ask Brayan Coral Jaramillo. He is a friendly guide and know all the birds of the region! 

Carretera Mocoa–Sibundoy

The road between Mocoa to Siibundoy is generally called the "Trampolín de la Muerte" (= "Trampoline of Death") and "Trampolín de las aves" (= "Trampoline of the birds) or "Trampolín de la biodiversidad" (= "Trampoline of the biodiversity). It is one of the richess places that we visited with almost 100 species encountered in two days and a half. The first day we explored 40 kilometers of the road from  the Restaurante Puerta del Sol toward Sibundoy. The second day we explored the 30 first kilometers from San Francisco toward Mocoa to an atlitude of 1'860 m.a.s.l. 

Some species were noted only below 1'500 m.a.s.l. in the first part of the road like Blue-fronted Lancebill, Lined Antshrike, Spectacled Prickletail and Golden-eared Tanager. 

The road is very good to observed the multiple mixed flocks composed of many tanagers and allies like Hooded Mountain-Tanager, Speckled, Flame-faced, Golden-crowned, Golden-naped, Grass-green, Orange-eared and Rufous-crested Tanager, Short-billed Bush-Tanager, Deep-blue Flowerpiercer and Yellow-breasted Brush-Finch. We also observed White-tailed Hillstar, Chestnut-bellied Thrush, Pearled Treerunner, Handsome Flycatcher, Lemon-browed Flycatcher and Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant.

We heard many interesting cryptic species like Bicolored and White-bellied Antpitta, Long-tailed, Spillmann's and White-crowned Tapaculo.

The third day, we went the morning near San Francisco toward the Vereda Minchoy. There we encountered Bicolored Antpitta, Spillmann's Tapaculo, Pearled Treerunner, Handsome Flycatcher and Yellow-breasted Brush-Finch.

Target species

  • Green-backed Hillstar Urochroa leucura

  • Lined Antshrike Thamnophilus tenuepunctatus

  • Bicolored Antpitta Grallaria rufocinerea

  • White-bellied Antpitta Grallaria hypoleuca

  • Long-tailed Tapaculo Scytalopus micropterus

  • Spillmann's Tapaculo Scytalopus spillmanni

  • Spectacled Prickletail Siptornis striaticollis

  • Lemon-browed Flycatcher Conopias cinchoneti

  • Chestnut-bellied Thrush Turdus fulviventris

  • Short-billed Chlorospingus Chlorospingus parvirostris

  • Yellow-breasted Brushfinch Atlapetes latinuchus

  • Rufous-crested Tanager Creurgops verticalis

  • Deep-blue Flowerpiercer Diglossa glauca

  • Orange-eared Tanager Chlorochrysa calliparaea

  • Golden-eared Tanager Tangara chrysotis

How to get there

The road is easily accessible from Mocoa or Sibundoy. The best is to do some regular stops. You can park the car where it does not interfere with traffic (the road is locally very narrow) and walk up and down to watch the birds along the road.

Facilities & accommodation

We explore the lowest part from Mocoa. We slept first in Mocoa in the Hotel Imari (a nice and cheap option), then we drive to the highest part of the road from Sibundoy and we slept in the Posadas Turisticas Villa Beatriz (a very nice and friendly place).

Local guides

We didn't take any guide but if you want one, ask Brayan Coral Jaramillo. He is a friendly guide and knows all the birds of the region! 

Laguna de la Cocha

We visited twice the area of the Laguna de la Cocha (in 2017 and in 2018). The weather was particularly rainy in 2017 which made bird watching difficult. In 2018, the weather was better but not perfect (windy and cloudy).

We explored four different areas in the region:

  • El Encano: We take also a boat tou to Isla de la Corata and to a small area west of the village. Interesting species euncountered on the shore of the lake included Yellow-billed Pintail, Virginia Rail, Andean Coot and Andean Gull.
  • El Motilon: from there we observed in 2017 a Silvery Grebe and some Grassland Yellow Finch.
  • Santa Rosa: The waterfowls observed here were the same as in El Encanto. Additional interesting species: Cinereous Harrier. 
  • El Socorro: We walked up from the northeast of El Encano (area of El Socorro) on the right at the sign of "Páramo Bordoncillo" from the village. The trail was really dirty in the end so we returned back (the rain also became more intense). In 2017, we observed several Grey-breasted Mountain Toucan (apparently not so rare here; with some close observations), Red-crested Cotinga, relatively big groups of Hooded and Lacrimose Mountain-tanagers. We also saw a pretty late Swainson's Thrush.

Target species

  • Virginia Rail Rallus limicola

  • Slate-colored Coot Fulica ardesiaca

Facilities & accommodation

We were staying in Santa Rosa in the Hotel Jardín del Lago, a relatively cheap accommodation with a beautiful view over the lake, hot water and Wi-Fi. In 2017 a Rufous-banded Owl was singing near the hotel.

Páramo Bordoncillo

We visited twice to the Páramo de Bordoncillo (in 2017 and 2018). Located at the limit between Nariño and Putumayo, we walked up along a small trail to an area with some communication towers. The two main reasons to come to this place is to search for the rare Chestnut-bellied Cotinga and Masked Mountain-tanager. Unfortunately, both visits were unsuccessful, mainly due to the foggy, windy and rainy weather that do not make it easy to find these species.

We still observed some interesting birds like Rainbow-bearded Thornbill, White-chinned Thistletail, White-browed Spinetail, Agile Tit-Tyrant, Paramo Tapaculo. In 2018, we were lucky to spot two Noble Snipes walking along the trail just a few meters from us.

Target species

  • Noble Snipe Gallinago nobilis

  • Chestnut-bellied Cotinga Doliornis remseni

    Not observed

  • Masked Mountain Tanager Tephrophilus wetmorei

    Not observed

How to get there

From the Laguna de la Cocha, drive 10 km from El Encano or 12.5 km from Santa Rosa to the limit between Nariño and Putumayo (1°08'51.3"N 77°05'57.9"W). You can park where near the small houses (ask the permission first and give something to them after). Then walk up the trail starting between the houses.

Facilities & accommodation

We visited this place from the Laguna de la Cocha and we were sleeping in the Hotel Jardín del Lago, located 12.5 kilometers away from the start of the trail.

Local guides

Brayan Coral Jaramillo is an amazing and friendly guide and knows all the birds of the region! He joint us during one morning in the Paramó de Bordoncillo and it was wonderful!

RN La Planada

We spend 3 days and 2 nights in the beautiful Reserva La Planada. The staf members were really friendly. The forest is beautiful and holds many interesting Choco endemic species like Dark-backed Wood-quail, Violet-tailed Sylph (common), Hoary Puffleg, Brown Inca, Purple-throated Woodstar (observed once near the entrance), Plate-billed Mountain-toucan, Toucan Barbet, Yellow-breasted Antpitta (heard and observed briefly around the first curve on the main road), Narino Tapaculo (relatively common), Uniform Treehunter, Fulvous-dotted Treerunner, Choco Tyrannulet (observed along the main road near the entrance), Beautiful Jay (one observed from a small opening where it is possible to observe the opposite forest) Dusky Bush-tanager, Glistening-green Tanager and Choco Brush-finch (observed near the entrance and aroud the first curve below on the main road). We also heard once a White-faced Nunbird. 

The birds were relatively common along the main road from the entrance to the small opening where it is possible to observe the opposite forest. We encountered 75 species during our stay. 

[Highly recommended site]

Target species

  • Dark-backed Wood-Quail Odontophorus melanonotus

  • Violet-tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus coelestis

  • Hoary Puffleg Haplophaedia lugens

  • Brown Inca Coeligena wilsoni

  • Purple-throated Woodstar Philodice mitchellii

  • White-faced Nunbird Hapaloptila castanea

  • Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan Andigena laminirostris

  • Toucan Barbet Semnornis ramphastinus

  • Yellow-breasted Antpitta Grallaria flavotincta

  • Nariño Tapaculo Scytalopus vicinior

  • Uniform Treehunter Thripadectes ignobilis

  • Fulvous-dotted Treerunner Margarornis stellatus

  • Choco Tyrannulet Zimmerius albigularis

  • Beautiful Jay Cyanolyca pulchra

  • Dusky Chlorospingus Chlorospingus semifuscus

  • Tricolored Brushfinch Atlapetes tricolor

  • Glistening-green Tanager Chlorochrysa phoenicotis

Facilities & accommodation

We slept in a nice chalet in the Reserva La Planada (ca. 100'000 COP/night for 2 persons).

Other wildlife observed

Many frogs, reptiles, insects and other wildlife.

RN Río Ñambí

The forest of the Reserva Río Ñambi is marvelous with some awesome species and the trees are full of epiphytes. We spend 4 days here. This site hosts many Choco endemic species; some observed are the same as on the previous site (La Planada) like Dark-backed Wood-quail, Violet-tailed Sylph, Brown Inca, Uniform Treehunter and Glistening-green Tanager (more common here).

One of the most iconic species observed in Río Ñambi is the Long-wattled Umbrellabird. We had a group of three birds (1 male and 2 females) in the lower part of the reserve. In this part we also encountered Barred Forest-Falcon, Choco Toucan and Zeledon's Antbird.

The small loop above the lodge was rather productive. We saw there aRufous-gaped Hillstar, an Ochre-breasted Antpitta perched in front of us, a few Toucan Barbets, a Choco Vireo, at least one Black Solitaire, a Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant, a Black-chinned Mountain-tanager, some Moss-backed Tanagers and Olive Finches.      

Around the lodge, we had many mixed flocks with Pacific Flatbill, Indigo Flowerpiercer, Dusky Bush-tanager, Silver-throated and Rufous-throated Tanager. We observed also a White-throated Spadebill. Early in the morning, we heard a Cloudforest Pygmy-owl singing.

Some other interesting species were encountered in small numbers pretty much everywhere in the reserve like Broad-billed Motmot, Fulvous-breasted Flatbill, Choco Warbler and Ochre-breasted Tanager.

[Highly recommended site]

Target species

  • Dark-backed Wood-Quail Odontophorus melanonotus

  • Violet-tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus coelestis

  • Brown Inca Coeligena wilsoni

  • Rufous-gaped Hillstar Urochroa bougueri

  • Cloud-forest Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium nubicola

  • Choco Toucan Ramphastos brevis

  • Toucan Barbet Semnornis ramphastinus

  • Uniform Treehunter Thripadectes ignobilis

  • Long-wattled Umbrellabird Cephalopterus penduliger

  • Choco Vireo Vireo masteri

  • Black Solitaire Entomodestes coracinus

  • Dusky Chlorospingus Chlorospingus semifuscus

  • Ochre-breasted Tanager Chlorothraupis stolzmanni

  • Indigo Flowerpiercer Diglossa indigotica

  • Black-chinned Mountain Tanager Anisognathus notabilis

  • Glistening-green Tanager Chlorochrysa phoenicotis

  • Moss-backed Tanager Bangsia edwardsi

  • Choco Warbler Myiothlypis chlorophrys

How to get there

First, contact the FELCA to organize your visit.

If you come with your own car you can park near the small shop (1°16'60.0"N 78°05'35.3"W), before the entrance (ask the permission and give something when you return). From here you have about an hour and a half of walking.

Facilities & accommodation

We slept in the lodge Reserva Río Ñambi. The lodge is relatively basic but nice and well located in the middle of the forest.

Local guides

There is for each visit an official guide from the FELCA. 

Other wildlife observed

Many frogs, reptiles, insects and other wildlife.

RN Laguna de Sonso

I visited thrice the site: in January 2016, in April 2017 and in September 2018. In 2017 and 2018, we spent more time exploring the place than in 2017. Each year, we birded in the area going to the reserve and in 2016 and 2018 we also visited the reserve itself and the lake. The reserve was always closed but fortunately each time someone open the gate for us. In January, the whole area was very dry (except the wetlands around the lake) and in April all the surroundings were flooded. The site is really good for the local waterfowls and waders like Least Grebe, Horned Screamer, Black-bellied Whistling Duck, Fulvous Whistling Duck, Roseate Spoonbill, Cocoi Heron, Anhinga, Limpkin, Black-necked Stilt, Wattled Jacana, as for the migrant and wintering ones like Northern Shoveler, Glossy Ibis, Greater Yellowlegs, Lesser Yellowlegs, Solitary Sandpiper, Spotted Sandpiper, Baird's Sandpiper or Pectoral Sandpiper. The Laguna de Sonso is one of the best site in the interior of Colombia for migratory species. Some of them are really abundant like Barn Swallow and Sand Martin, and some others are rarities as it may be one of the most southerly place for several North American species like Wilson's Snipe, Belted Kingfisher (only a handful of records so far south in South America) and Orchard Oriole! The region hosted also some species not especially linked with water like Grey-headed Dove, Ruby-topaz Hummingbird, Greyish Piculet (pretty common in 2018), Bar-crested Antshrike and Apical Flycatcher (common). The Snail Kite are also really common around.

Target species

  • Horned Screamer Anhima cornuta

  • Grayish Piculet Picumnus granadensis

  • Apical Flycatcher Myiarchus apicalis

  • Flame-rumped Tanager Ramphocelus flammigerus

How to get there

From Buga take the main road to Buenaventura and turn on the left just before the bridge over Río Cauca in the hamlet of Puerto Bertin. Cross the hamlet and continue a few hundred meters on the main track. Have a first look over the river. This place is interesting for the waders. Then continue and turn on the left to the entrance of the reserve. In the reserve, you can walk on the trails and watch the lake from the observation towers.

Facilities & accommodation

There are different hotels in Buga for all rates. In 2018, we slept in the Hotel gran ambrosia. It was a nice and relatively cheap hotel (less thant 20 USD for a double room).

Santa Rosa de Cabal area

In 2018, we visited the Termales de Santa Rosa de Cabal. We birded early in the morning around our hostal. From there we observed some nice species such as Greyish-throated Toucanet, Greyish Piculet and Black-winged Saltator.

Then we went to the Termales. As it was not open we decied to observe the birds along the road between the car park and the Hotel Termales. We had a Red-ruffed Fruitcrow with 5 Greyish-throated Toucanets and 2 Golden-headed Quetzals, as well as a nice observation of Golden-winged Manakin and White-naped Brush-Finch.

When the thermal baths were opened, we reach the Balneario. We enjoy the hot water and we observed also the surroundings. The bushes flowering attracted many hummingbirds like Bronzy Inca, Western Wedge-billed Hummingbird ,Western Emerald and Booted Racket-tail

In 2016, I visited the area of Potreros (04°51'24.07"N, 75°29'4.57"W). This site is apparently a good option and relatively accessible site to try the endemic and critically endangered Indigo-winged Parrot, whose current population is approximatively 160 birds. I observed 4 birds feeding at the top of the trees. I also observed there 2 other rare parakeets: Rufous-fronted and Golden-plumed Parakeet, and I encountered Purple-backed Thornbill and Grey-breasted Mountain Toucan during my waiting time.

Target species

  • White-throated Daggerbill Schistes albogularis

  • Grayish Piculet Picumnus granadensis

  • Indigo-winged Parrot Hapalopsittaca fuertesi

    Observed in 2016

  • Red-ruffed Fruitcrow Pyroderus scutatus

Facilities & accommodation

We slept in the Hospedaje El Mirador. A cheap and nice option well located.

SFF Otún Quimbaya & PRN Ucumari

We visited thrice the SFF Otún Quimbaya (in 2016, 2017 and 2018). It is another paradise for birdwatcher. An easily accessible site with relatively cheap and nice accommodations, friendly staff and some fabulous birding opportunities. During all my visits, we encountered more than 130 bird species including 7 endemics: Cauca Guan (very common everywhere around the site), Chestnut Wood-quail (heard once), Greyish Piculet (once observation with 3 birds on the Sendero Bejucos), Stiles's Tapaculo, Sooty-headed Wren (once 2 birds along the road), Flame-rumped Tanager, Multicolored Tanager (along the road) and Crested Ant Tanager (seen twice on the river side of the road), as well as 7 near-endemics such as Brown Inca and Moustached Antpitta (heard on the mountain side of the road just after the center). I also encountered several other interesting species like Tawny-breasted Tinamou (heard and observed once in 2016), Mottled Owl (hears in April 2017), Collared Trogon, Spotted Barbtail, Plumbeous-crowned Tyrannulet, Andean Cock-of-the-rock, Red-ruffed Fruitcrow (surprisingly abundant here), Chestnut-breasted Wren, Blue-naped Chlorophonia, Chestnut-breasted Chlorophonia, Cerulean Warbler (once along the road near the center in a mixed flock), Ashy-throated Bush Tanager and Golden-naped Tanager (observed once along the road in a mixed flock). A good strategy to bird here is to stay for 2 nights. In the early morning go for a walk along the road then return back to the center for the breakfast and to do one of the other trails (to visit the 3 other ones you have to be accompanied by an official guide). Then return back to the road. Generally the midday is good for the mixed flocks that could be really nice here. After lunch you can go higher along the road (in the direction of El Cedral). If you want to change a bit, you can also prospect the garden and the edge of the forest or the nearby river for dipper and Torrent Duck. And if you want a break or if it is raining, you can drink a beer (or else) with a good view.

In 2019, the weather were not the best but we still encountered more than 60 species in 24 hours. We heard at least 4 different Moustached Antpitta 1'200 meters from the visitor center (4°43'25.4"N 75°34'06.4"W).

Target species

  • Cauca Guan Penelope perspicax

  • Chestnut Wood-Quail Odontophorus hyperythrus

  • Grayish Piculet Picumnus granadensis

  • Moustached Antpitta Grallaria alleni

  • Red-ruffed Fruitcrow Pyroderus scutatus

  • Flame-rumped Tanager Ramphocelus flammigerus

  • Multicolored Tanager Chlorochrysa nitidissima

How to get there

The access is easy from Pereira along the river. At the end, the road can be quite bad, but it is possible to go to the visitor center without a  four-wheel drive car.

Facilities & accommodation

We slept in the SFF Otún Quimbaya. They have double rooms, as well as dormitories.

Calarcá

We spend the end of the afternoon in the beautiful Quindío Botanical Garden. We encountered Striped Cuckoo, Green Hermit and Great Antshrike.

Target species

  • Turquoise Dacnis Dacnis hartlaubi

    Not observed

  • Flame-rumped Tanager Ramphocelus flammigerus

Local guides

We had a English speaking official guide who know pretty well the birds of the botanical garden.

PN Chicaque

In 2018, we just spend the midday at the Restaurante Arboloco to enjoy the hummings coming to the feeders. We saw there two Golden-bellied Starfrontlets.

In 2016, I spent the two last days of my trip in this beautiful cloud forest not so far from Bogotá. I count 86 species there, including 2 endemics: Moustached Brushfinch and Black Inca (observed on the patio of the lodge... my last “new” species for my 2016 trip!) and 3 near-endemic. The mixed flocks present here were fabulous with a lot of furnariidae, warblers and tanagers. I observed also 2 Plushcaps (one near the lodge down and one in the middle of the slope in the bamboo). I slept in the lodge; the accomodation and the meal was relatively cheap and I could hear Rufous-banded Owl, Andean Pygmy Owl and Band-winged Nightjar from my bed.

Target species

  • Black Inca Coeligena prunellei

  • Golden-bellied Starfrontlet Coeligena bonapartei

  • Moustached Brushfinch Atlapetes albofrenatus

Facilities & accommodation

It is possible to sleep in the reserve. I did it in 2016 and it was really nice.

Bogotá

Here is a list of the different visited sites between 2016 and 2018:

  • Botanical Garden: The botanical garden is a good start for birding in the capital. A good spot for the near-endemic Rufous-browed Conebill.
  • Parque Simón Bolívar: This urban park is a very good place in Bogotá for migratory passerines:Eastern Wood Pewee, Acadian Flycatcher, Great Crested Flycatcher, American Cliff Swallow, Red-eyed Vireo, Tennessee Warbler, American Redstart, Blackburnian Warbler, American Yellow Warbler, Eastern Kingbird, Summer and Scarlet Tanager. The Northeastern part seems to be the best to look for them (04°39'41.70"N, 74°05'44.37"W). Avoid the Sunday to watch the birds as the park is full of people (despite the fact it is difficult to search the birds, the vibe is just fantastic). Rufous-browed Conebill can also be encountered in this park.
  • Parque La Florida:The park around the lake seems to be generally closed but I found one person who opened it just for me. The lake was a good place to look for waterfowls; among the numerous Andean Ducks, Blue-winged Teals and American Coot, I observed >10 Lesser Scaups and 1 Masked Duck. Also some Spot-flanked Gallinules from the endemic subspecies.
  • Humedal Jaboque: It seems to be a good spot for the endemic and endangered Bogota Rail; I heard a few birds and I saw one in the Northern part of the wetland (near the canal) hidden under some branches. Silvery-throated Spinetail and Apolinar's Wren are also possible here.
  • Parque Santa María del Lago: I haven’t read much about this spot before. I was looking for some good city parks to birdwatch and I found it by exploring a map of the capital. During my visits, the place was pretty good for migratory birds like Northern Waterthrush on January, 2016 or Western Wood Pewee on April, 2017. I also observed the near-endemic Rufous-browed Conebill. The park open rather early in the morning (6:00 am) and it is really quiet.
  • Monserrate: located at 3'170 m.a.s.l., this hill is also good if you are travelling with non-birdwatchers as the view of the capital and its surrounding is impressive. The site is nice for the hummingbirds and brush-finches. On January 2016, I saw there a near-endemic Blue-throated Starfrontlet. Regularly observed hummers included Black-tailed Trainbearer, Shining Sunbeam, Tyrian Metaltail and Sword-billed Hummingbird (a good place for the last one is below on the left when you leave the cable car: 4°36'18.5"N, 74°03'20.9"W).
  • Quebrada La Vieja:  This path go up across the mountain forest. The site is open only in the morning and is secured by the police. Perfect for a small walk.

Target species

  • Bogota Rail Rallus semiplumbeus

  • Silvery-throated Spinetail Synallaxis subpudica

    Not observed personally around Bogotá

  • Apolinar's Wren Cistothorus apolinari

    Not observed personally around Bogotá

  • Rufous-browed Conebill Conirostrum rufum

La Calera

We visited for few hours the feeders of the Observatorio de Colibríes near La Calera. We observed among others Sword-billed Hummingbird, Blue-throated Starfrontlet, Black-tailed and Green-tailed Trainbearer.

Target species

  • Coppery-bellied Puffleg Eriocnemis cupreoventris

    Not observed but regular there

  • Blue-throated Starfrontlet Coeligena helianthea

How to get there

First you should contact them before visiting, then you can found on their website a plan and an itinerary to the site.

Facilities & accommodation

We come from Bogotá. You can sleep in the Observatorio de Colibríes but it is pretty expensive.

Species List

Order: systematic | alphabetic | highlights first
Published: 19 February 2019
Last updated: 30 December 2019
Southern Colombia - Orniverse